Gibb River Road aneb Absolutní ztroskotání

Den 390 / 1. října 2016 Kununurra El Questro Naplánovat cestu z Kununury do Derby po slavné „Gibb River Road“ se ukázalo jako docela velký cestovatelský oříšek. Napříč má nějakých 660km po nezpevněné cestě a dá se z ní udělat ještě spousta zajížděk třeba pro benzín, který na několik odlehlých míst občas dovážejí. My potřebovali ujet přes tři sta padesát kilometrů na jeden zátah, mít dostatek vody i jídla a hlavně aby to všechno Zetky uvezly po nezpevněných cestách. K tomu bylo třeba zjistit v jakém stavu cesta je ptali jsme se v kavárnách i náhodných kolemjdoucích, ale převážně se všichni shodli, že to projet jde. Snad by to nemuselo zabrat víc jak pět dní, ve kterých nás měly čekat dva velké brody a dohromady něco přes sedm set kilometrů. Za tmy jsme přijeli na benzínku, vyprázdnili do křoví poslední zbytky starého oleje a benzínu z kanystrů a naplnili, co se dalo. Přenocovali jsme čtyřicet kilometrů za městem, snědli poslední zásoby neskladného jídla a vypili poslední teplá piva. Byli jsme připraveni. Brzký budíček a přímočarý plán – dojet jen do stanice El Questro, která by měla být něco jako soukromý národní park a ve které jsme chtěli poprvé doplnit benzín měli jsme to opravdu natěsno. Do stanice nám chybělo jen šedesát kilometrů převážně po asfaltce takže pohodička. Po třiceti kilometrech jsme si udělali fotku při vjezdu na odbočku a u značky „Další benzínka za 321 km“. Pokračovali jsme v cestě a občas zamávali protijedoucím džípům, dokud na nás jeden z nich nezačal blikat. Kokusek za námi se otočil, předjel nás a přistavil hned před námi na straně cesty. Vyšel z něj mladý pár a přes hluk mojí Čízy jsem jen viděl artikulaci, která vypadala nápadně česky. Bez toho, abych cokoliv slyšel, jsem už zdravil v češtině. V autě jeli Luďěk s Ivetou, kteří už nějakou dobu žijí v Austrálii a zrovna se vydali na několikaměsíční cestu skrz její nejodlehlejší části. Když viděli naše Čízy, nevěřili svým očím (a uším) a museli se přesvědčit, že na našich značkách je opravdu napsáno CZ. Po chvíli jsme už seděli v trávě, popíjeli jejich vychlazené pivko a povídali si pod roztahovací střechou jejich auta. I když jsme spoustu krajanů potkali v Brisbane, narazit na někoho takhle na cestě se nám už opravdu dlouho nestalo a tak jsme si to hrozně užili. Jenže nic netrvá věčně, rozloučili jsme se a pokračovali dál. Vzali jsme odbočku na El Questro a po vlnkované prašné cestě se pokusili zdolat prvních šestnáct kilometrů. Moje cesta po „roletách“ probíhá následovně: Ivanka mi věčně mizí někde za horizontem a já se jí snažím stihat. Najdu si kus cesty, kde jsou vlnky jen malinké, rozjedu se, přeřadím na dvojku. Přidám ještě víc, vlnky se trochu prohloubí, ale s vyšší rychlostí po nich zvládám přejíždět dostatečně rychle na to, aby se Číza nerozklepala. Takhle ujedu pár set metrů, než se vlnky neprohloubí ještě více a Číza už nestihá přelétávat a namísto toho se pekelně roztřese hlavně přední vidlice, která namísto pružení jen lítá dopředu a dozadu v krčku, který už dávno má takovou vůli, že funguje jako další tlumič. V té době kolabuje můj smysl pro zachování mé Čízy, stehny držím nádrž, abych snížil třes motorky a jel alespoň trochu rovně, co nejpevněji držím řídítka a snažím se brzdit skoro nefungující zadní brzdou. Přeskáču pár vlnek, najdu si hezčí kus cesty a situace se opakuje. Rozjedu se, zpomalím a slyším, jak mi něco prasklo v zadním kole. Zadní kolo plavalo ze strany na stranu a bylo mi jasné, že jsem píchnul. Pamatoval jsem si, jaké bylo peklo dostat naše nové Dunlopky na ráfek a vůbec jsem se netěšil na to, co mě mělo čekat pod drsným australským sluncem uprostřed buše. Sundal jsem kolo a objevil důvod celého problému – praskla mi další špice, která se někde zachytila, celá se ohla a její horní část mi prorazila díru do duše. Naštěstí je to přímočará oprava a měli jsme čerstvě koupené lepení na duše, takže zatímco Ivanka hledala v kufru náhradní špice, já bojoval s pneumatikou, lepil duši a kontroloval zbytek špic. Spousta z nich totiž byla taky v háji a vůbec nedržela v niplu, takže jsem jich nakonec musel vyměnit asi sedm. Stranou nezůstala ani Ivančina Číza, která taky přišla o jednu špici a když Ivanka sundala kolo, objevila, že jsou v háji i ložiska. Normálně nasazujeme gumy jen nohami, ale Dunlopkám se opravdu nechtělo a v tomhle parnu jsme s nimi po půl hodině trápení ztratili trpělivost a použili montpáky. Nafoukali jsme kolo a ono zase ušlo k velkému překvapení obecenstva jsme při nasazování samozřejmě duši cvakli, takže lepit znovu. Ivanka mezitím měnila ložiska, já nadával nad svou blbostí a pak nad pneumatikou, která mi už zase nešla nasadit. Než jsme byli schopni vyjet uplynuly čtyři hodiny a odpočinkový den byl dávno v tahu. A bylo nám hlavně jasné, že takhle to nemáme šanci ujet a že nejlepší bude, když si alespoň užijeme El Questro a okolní kaňony a pak pojedeme po hlavní, asfaltové cestě dále na západ. Jenže když jsem přišel k motorce, objevil jsem, že špice nejen protrhla duši, ale utrhla i jednu stranu jednoho ze článků řetězu! Jedna půlka článku se vesele tyčila k nebi. Z toho jsme uprostřed buše opravdu neměli radost. Kdo s sebou vozí náhradní řetěz že? My! Ale v Austrálii jsme ho nemohli nikde sehnat a tak jsme si řekli, že jsme ho ještě nikdy nepotřebovali a tak to prubnem! Chvíli jsme se hádali, co teď budeme dělat a nakonec jsme se rozhodli, že prostě pojedeme dál a uvidíme, jestli to řetěz na půl článku udrží ke dva kilometry vzdálené stanici. Na jedničku jsem se houpal po vlnité cestě a vypadalo to, že řetěz alespoň prozatím drží. Přijeli jsme k brodu a přišla další velká zkouška našich Číz. Když projížděla auta, nevypadalo to moc hluboce. Vjel jsem hrdinsky do řeky a doufal jsem, že krokodýli si dneska dali volno a plavou si někde v mořích. V půlce brodu jsem byl s vodou skoro po kolena a Číza pode mnou začala kuckat. Bylo mi jasné, že zbytek už budeme muset s Ivankou, která mi mezitím přišla na pomoc, dotlačit. Stejný osud čekal i její stroj, ale opět se ukázaly výhody dvoutaktu a tak jsme je jen párkrát protočili, z výfuků vytekla voda a Zetky se rozběhly. Dojeli jsme do nedaleké stanice a čekalo nás další nemilé překvapení. Náš plán byl zaparkovat Zetky a vydat se stopem do města sehnat nový řetěz, ale v kempu po nás chtěli 800 Kč jen za přespání plus dalších 480 Kč za povolení být v parku, takže dohromady nějakých třináct stovek za to, že si na jejich trávě postavíme stan. To jsme nemohli překousnout a tak jsme se jim na protest osprchovali v jejich super luxusních sprchách, přebrodili řeku nazpět a zakempili opodál v buši. Ještě než jsme tam dojeli jsme ale v písku položil motorku a pořádně si na lýtko otisknul výfuk. Začalo pršet. Ráno jsme se probudili ve stanu a přemýšleli, co vlastně budeme dělat. Včerejší den nebyl z nejlepších, motorky byly na kaši já měl na lýtku deseticentimetrový hnědý otisk schovaný pod obvazem. Bylo třeba si zlepšit náladu a jak se nejlépe zlepšuje nálada? Koupáním v horkých pramenech! Sbalili jsme stan a přesunuli jsme se o kus dál k termálnímu pramenu Zebedee Springs. Zaparkovali jsme na kompletně prázdném parkovišti a za pár minut jsme s plavkami v rukou došli ke skupince palem, mezi kterými protékala průzračně čistá voda o teplotě 32°C. Nad ni jsme si ještě zavěsili houpací síť, vedle které jsme rozložili vařící výbavu a plán na zbytek dopoledne byl určen. Ve dvanáct jsme odjížděli odpočatí a připravení na cestu zpět. Řetěz držel, noha nebolela a po pár hodinách jsme zaparkovali na našem známém odpočívadle, kde jsme přespávali už předchozí den. Černou motorku jsme zaparkovali a já vyrazil na té Červené do města shánět náhradní díly. Bylo to jen 45 kilometrů a tím pádem 45 minut, ale než jsem tam dojel, odstavil si mě u kraje cesty další cestovatel – tentokrát Francouz, který nechápal, co tady dělám s ČZtou a jak jsem se sem vlastně dostal. Vysvětlil jsem mu, že Barma už je pár let otevřená, na což si postěžoval, že za jeho časů, když drandili kolem světa na BMW GS, tohle ještě možné nebylo. Chtěl mě ještě pozvat na kávu, ale bohužel jsem spěchal do obchodu, který podle mých předpokladů za nedlouho zavíral a nechtěl jsem riskovat, že budeme muset čekat další den. Řekl jsme si o řetěz 428 a když chlapík s jistotou šel do regálů, vzbudil ve mně pocit naděje, ten ale moc dlouho nevydržel, protože měli jen verzi 428H, která je na naše motorky moc široká. Zkusili jsme i 420, která je zase moc úzká a dohodli jsme se, že nám objedná nový kus a my si ho za dva dny vyzvedneme – nic lepšího se už prostě dělat nedalo. Vrátil jsem se na odpočívadlo za Ivankou, která už mezitím vařila večeři a umírala na nachlazení, které ji v posledních dnech potkalo. Rozhlédnul jsem se okolo, za svitu zapadajícího slunce a zvuku přilétajících komárů jsem si pověsil houpací síť na malý baobab, vzal si kindl a šel si na chvíli číst v obývací místnosti našeho domova na následující dvě noci, než se budeme moci opět pohnout. Ještě by se asi hodilo zmínit, že Ivanka už před nějakým týdnem trvala na tom, že na Gibb River Road bez náhradního řetězu nepojede, ale já říkal, že přece spousta motorkářů bez něj jezdí. Stálo nás to tři dny. 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graphSpeed : [], graphHr : [], graphAtemp : [], graphCad : [], graphGrade : [], waypoints : [], unit : "2", unitspeed : "1", color1 : ["#3366cc"], color2 : "#3366cc", color3 : "#ff0000", color4 : "#ff77bd", color5 : "#beecff", color6 : "#000000", color7 : "#ff77bd", chartFrom1 : "", chartTo1 : "", chartFrom2 : "", chartTo2 : "", startIcon : "", endIcon : "", currentIcon : "", waypointIcon : "", currentpositioncon : "", usegpsposition : "", zoomOnScrollWheel : "", ngGalleries : [], ngImages : [], pluginUrl : "https://www.vantuch.cz/wp-content/plugins", TFApiKey : "", langs : { altitude : "Nadmořská výška", currentPosition : "Current position", speed : "Rychlost", grade : "Grade", heartRate : "Srdeční tep", atemp : "Temperature", cadence : "Kadence", goFullScreen : "Go full screen", exitFullFcreen : "Exit full screen", hideImages : "Hide images", showImages : "Show images", backToCenter : "Vycentrovat" } }); }); Total distance: 161.71 kmTotal climbing: 969 mTotal descent: -905 m

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