Již poněkolikáté v historii jsme museli stopovat. Černá motorka byla s natrženým řetězem zaseknutá na odpočívadle padesát kilometrů od nejbližšího města (reálně jediného v okolí asi 600 km) a protože na odpočívadle nebyla ani voda, byli jsme nuceni se každý den přesouvat do města. Stopem. Při naší první cestě do města jsme zastavili dva kluky, kteří nedaleko pracovali v diamantovém dole, celou noc hledali v zemi kusy nepoužitelného třpytivého kamene a teď se jeli do města střískat. Po cestě zpět nám zastavil Mick, který už ve svých čtrnácti letech odešel z domu a stopem přejel na opačnou stranu Austrálie, kde si našel práci. Dalšího dne nás ráno nabral nevýrazný chlapík, kterého si už nepamatujeme, aby nás po cestě zpět nejdříve o kus popovezla aboriginská rodinka a zanechala nás uprostřed buše, čímž připravila vhodnou půdu k vrcholu našeho australského stopování. Většinou se snažíme nestopovat před policisty, ale tentokrát jsme si všimli majáků pozdě. Když nám zastavili u krajnice, nevěděli jsme, co si máme myslet. Musel jsem potlačit přirozené nutkání utéci tak typické pro občana východoevropského post-komunistického státu. Namísto toho jsme se s Ivankou rozběhli směrem k autu. Policajti se nás zeptali, kam chceme jet, domluvili jsme se a my si naskočili dozadu. Jeden z nich nám oznámil, že stopování je ve státě Západní Austrálie zakázané, ale že jen oni si můžou určit, jaké zákony budou vynucovat a jaké ne. Oba byli hrozně v pohodě a je strašně zvláštní, s jakými předsudky člověk přistupuje k jejich povolání a jakým způsobem mě pokřivily všechny české historky a rčení. I když o tom tak přemýšlím, velkou zásluhu na tom mají i americké historky, ale to taky souvisí s tím, že většina Australanů považuje Američany za šílence střílející do všeho, co se hne. Hold se stále mám co učit. Je třeba poznamenat, že při tomhle stopu jsme už v batohu měli náš vysněný řetěz, který ochotně objednal majitel motorkářského obchodu v Kununuře. Taky by se ještě hodilo zmínit, že jsme oba dva dny tak nějak strávili v malinké kavárně, kde se o nás jako o vlastní staral její majitel, který nám vyprávěl, jak za mlada procestoval celou Evropu a jak mu připomínáme jeho samotného. Díky tomu jsme měli po celý den přísun vody s ledem a hlavně elektřiny pro naše laptopy zdroje naší obživy. Vysadili nás přímo u stanu, protože si pánové oficíři chtěli prohlédnout naše stroje. Naši pozornost v tu chvíli ale měl stan. Byli jsme si jisti, že při odjezdu měl pravidelnější tvar a nic z něj netrčelo. Stále ještě pořádně foukalo a asi to úplně nepřežil a tak jsme se rychle rozloučili a vrhli jsme se na kontrolu škod. Jedna ze tří nosných tyčí byla zlomená, ale Ferrino naštěstí ke stanu přidává i trubičku na rychlo opravu, takže jsme ji jen nastrčili a měli jsme hotovo. Roztrhnutou plachtu stanu jsme nechali až na někdy jindy pravděpodobně až po tom, co nám nateče do stanu a my uvidíme, že to je opravdu potřeba zalepit. Teď bylo potřeba hlavně vyrazit. Z města jsme si sice přivezli dost vody na pití, ale na sprchu by to určitě nevystačilo a my už ji po několika dnech docela potřebovali. Ve čtyři odpoledne jsme měli nasazený nový řetěz a kemp sbalen, takže jsme vyrazili zase na cestu. Už po hodince začalo zapadat slunce, klokani začali vylézat ze stínů a už tak dost červená krajina se obalila do rudé záře. Se sluncem těsně nad obzorem jsme jeli snad půl hodiny, než zmizelo a nechalo za sebou jen červeno žlutou vzpomínku a uzounký srpek měsíce. Z nebeského gradientu na nás vykoukaly hvězdy, hmyz nám bušil do helem a my šedesátkou jeli po krásné asfaltce až k vytouženému parkovišti, které (dle aplikace WikiCamps, kterou v Austrálii používá skoro každý kemper) má dostupnou vodu. Jenže když jsme tam dorazili, mělo tak akorát dva koše, které nám moc nepomohly. Rozhodli jsme se, že na takovém místě přespávat nebudeme a že budeme pokračovat alespoň k nějakému odpočívadlu. Za chvíli jsme potkali benzínku a tak jsme využili jejich kohoutek s vodou, který byl nejspíše pro odstrašení umístěn přímo nad pisoáry. Nás ale neodstrašil, nabrali jsme plnou (16 l vody) a se splněným cílem dne pokračovali o dalších dvacet kilometrů dál k našemu finálnímu kempovacímu místu, kde jsme rozbili stan, na větev pověsili naši přenosnou sprchu (vak s 6l vody a malou dírkou) a užili si pravou motorkářskou sprchu. Když jsme si k tomu na večeři uvařili brambory se žampionovou omáčkou a smaženými klobáskami, připadali jsme si vskutku na úrovni. Ráno se s námi přišlo rozloučit několik kakadu a jeden klokan. Na to, že jsme včerejšího dne vyjeli až kolem 4 odpoledne jsme nakonec zvládli příjemných 160 km, ale do dalšího města, Broome, stále zbývalo kilometrů více než osm set. Skrz vyschlou zemi plnou kaňonů, po asfaltce lemované mrtvými tělíčky klokanů, jsme pokračovali k vesnici Halls creek (místními přezdívanému Hells creek – pekelná říčka). Tak škaredě tam nebylo a u informací měli dokonce kohoutek, kde jsme si znovu doplnili vodu do naší přenosné sprchy a zajistili si tím další čistý a voňavý den – nebo tedy alespoň v rámci mezí. Pak už nás čekaly jen dvě hodiny jízdy a zakempování na odpočívadle Mary Pool, který bylo velmi příhodně umístěné daleko u cesty a hlavně bylo celé mezi stromy, mezi které se krásně vešly naše houpací sítě. Uvařili jsme si těstoviny, k tomu přidali spoustu čaje a zbytek dne prožili zavěšení s výhledem na mléčnou dráhu. 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graphSpeed : [], graphHr : [], graphAtemp : [], graphCad : [], graphGrade : [], waypoints : [], unit : "2", unitspeed : "1", color1 : ["#3366cc"], color2 : "#3366cc", color3 : "#ff0000", color4 : "#ff77bd", color5 : "#beecff", color6 : "#000000", color7 : "#ff77bd", chartFrom1 : "", chartTo1 : "", chartFrom2 : "", chartTo2 : "", startIcon : "", endIcon : "", currentIcon : "", waypointIcon : "", currentpositioncon : "", usegpsposition : "", zoomOnScrollWheel : "", ngGalleries : [], ngImages : [], pluginUrl : "https://www.vantuch.cz/wp-content/plugins", TFApiKey : "", langs : { altitude : "Nadmořská výška", currentPosition : "Current position", speed : "Rychlost", grade : "Grade", heartRate : "Srdeční tep", atemp : "Temperature", cadence : "Kadence", goFullScreen : "Go full screen", exitFullFcreen : "Exit full screen", hideImages : "Hide images", showImages : "Show images", backToCenter : "Vycentrovat" } }); }); Total distance: 422.08 kmTotal climbing: 1353 mTotal descent: -1197 m
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